With Rosalinda accepting the invitation to Quetzaltenango, there was great anticipation in the house about the trip. Rosalinda is my Spanish teacher and her family has been hosting me during my visit. She had never been to Quetzaltenango and for her, a weekend out of Antigua was a special event. 

Our day began at 3:30am with Willemien knocking at the door. Our bus was picking us up in the street at 4am, so I was awake and getting my backpack ready. Turns out Willemien was still sick. She had not been feeling well for a few days, but this day she was at her worst and decided last minute that six hours in a bus was not a good idea. Tearfully disappointed, she handed me her Footprint travel book, wishing us the best.

This trip it was my responsibility to be the guide! Rosalinda and I caught our ride to Guatemala City where we caught our bus to Quetzaltenango, called Xela (Shyla) by the locals. We had assigned seats on this bus, but there were people that stood in the aisle for the entire five hour trip on the curvy mountain roads. They were exhausted by time we got there.

We arrived in Xela at 10am and immediately took a cab to the primary bus station to buy our tickets back to Guatemala City the next day. We then picked out a hotel based on the advice from Footprints and it turned out to be the perfect place to spend the night. We wanted to make our way to the Copavic Glass Blowing Factory in Cantel, a small pueblo outside of Xela. The factory closed at 12pm and was not open on Sundays, but we found a taxi driver that got us there just in time for them to be locking the doors. With that, we got a private tour of the place. For whatever reason, I did not take out my camera and I do not have one picture of the creativity we saw there. I picked up a gorgeous, uniquely shaped flask for $10. If you make it to my house, I may serve up a cup of coffee, a margarita or whatever you prefer from my small piece of Copavic. 

We then asked how to get to Las Fuentes Georginas, the hot sulfur springs that Quetzaltenango is known for. We had to catch a chicken bus to the next small pueblo where it sounded as though we needed to wait at the bottom of a hill for another ride. Things are not always real clear here. I have learned that it is only possible to take one step at a time, planning is not only not useful, it is simply not possible. For me, this has been a wonderful thing!

While walking to catch the first chicken bus, below are a few of the scenes we passed by. The weather here was chilly and damp...perfect for hot springs!     











We were in a place that was 90% Mayan. The people on the bus were wonderfully interesting with their captivating eyes, beautiful dark faces, and black hair poking through their brilliantly colored, intricately hand woven clothing. 

When we got on the bus, we asked where to get off for Las Fuentes. Ten minutes later, the driver motioned this was our stop. We got off the bus in another small pueblo that I never got the name of. Not sure what to do at this point, we asked a few of the people that seemed to be waiting for another bus. They told us we were in the wrong place and needed to walk up the road to the bottom of another road that went straight up the mountain. We passed by a Mayan funeral, a tremendous amount of trash and many Orange Crush signs. They love that stuff down here! 

Within 15 minutes a road came into view that looked like what everyone had described. So, we waited there for a bus...the only two people waiting there.....and waiting there. Eventually, a little "pick-up" came by with the racks on the back used for hauling people. He stopped, we told him where we wanted to go and he offered us a ride up the mountain to Las Fuentes for $30Q or about $4.50.     

The family we took a ride with!




The drive was stunning, through gorgeous mountainsides where people were working the fields. This was an opportunity to step back in time to see the manual labor that was/is involved in tending the land. The air was crisp. Within five minutes, we were passing through clouds with views that were breathtaking.










We made it! Las Fuentes Georginas, hot sulfur springs on top of a mountain somewhere outside of Xela. The first thing we did was get some food. Trying to get to the glass factory before it closed prevented us from stopping sooner. We did find a small bag of chips in Cantel, but I am always the worst about remembering food on a trip!

The first small pool we passed by.....






The main area where the restaurant was located.






Enjoying a couple of Gallos....




The clouds rolled in and out creating moments of complete white outs and moments of clarity with just the steam rising off the water.


The rain came and went as well. The people did not mind and neither did we. The water was very warm, like a nice hot bath. The water slightly stung our eyes. At the various sources of the springs, the water was so hot you couldn't take more than a drip. The people collected granules of minerals from the rocks, rubbing the concoction on their faces for a free facial. I did the same and have to say after two hours of that on my face, my skin was like butter! Fantastic! Of course we all looked like painted warriors with our white faces peering through the fog.
 






I loved the plants below. They were actually very large and covered a tremendous amount of space. 


Rosalinda and I had a great day, we closed the place down. We spent almost three hours speaking Spanish (yes, I can actually hold a decent conversation now!), talking with the locals and just hanging out.  




Waiting by the fire as a gentleman tried to call a friend to take us back down the mountain where we could catch a chicken bus back to Cantel.....


So, unbeknownst to us, there was no transportation down the mountain this late in the day. Hmmm...that was not in the book! With no other option, we began walking down the lonely road. Rosalinda asked me to make a photo so they would have a picture of her before she died, lost in the mountains!



The views were spectacular, but the situation was ridiculous!



It was quickly becoming dark, the ride up the hill in the car had been at least 20 minutes long and there were no people other than the Mayan farmers along the way near the bottom. I began saying out loud...."ok, we need a car to pass by!", in a joking but serious, prayerful kind of way! Rosalinda would say, "Sho" (Shut up)! I repeated, "ok, now we really have to have a car pass by!" Again, "Sho!", she said. There were little paths out of the mountains and she was afraid what she called delinquents would hear me and come rob us at best. Laughing, because I didn't know what else to do, I started to site out loud in Spanish the first two lines of the Lord's Prayer. With this, she ordered me to shut up one last time! We just kept laughing and walking....

After 20 minutes of walking, darkness closing in....we both heard a car coming from behind us. I stood in the middle of the road waving my arms. That car was not going down that mountain without us, unless they planned on running me over! A tiny, little four person car stopped and the window rolled down. Remaining in front of the car, I began to explain the situation in Spanish when a passenger asked me if I spoke English. Turns out, they were from Atlanta! Enthusiastically, I said yes, I speak English! With that, I explained we were actually in a bad situation and really needed their help in this moment to get down the mountain.
 
The drive down the mountain took another 30 minutes from where we were. The clouds and darkness came in so thick, the driver had to roll down his window to see the road. I was so thankful they had passed by! They explained they stayed longer at the pools, hiking the mountain a little and were heading back to Xela. They offered to take us the entire way and dropped us off at our hotel at 7:30pm!    

We got cleaned up and went to this fantastic Italian restaurant in Xela for a nice dinner after our adventure! On the way, the city was out of control! Xela had just won the futbol (soccer) championship. Horns were honking, the streets were packed with cars, people were waving flags, bands were playing, and drunks were stumbling around, peeing wherever was convenient! I did not see a single cop car, policeman, nothing....it was a free for all! We just walked fast, kept to ourselves and enjoyed being part of the excitement! This went on all night and into the next day.

At 10:30pm, Rosalinda woke me up. She was sick. We weren't sure why, but the food didn't settle with her....I was fine. Usually a walking pharmacy, I had left all my medicines in Antigua! With that, we headed out to find a 24 hour pharmacy in a town that had been partying hard. One man came stubling down the sidewalk and fell into a huge puddle (it had been raining much of the night) in the street where a car came very close to running him over. The elusive pharmacy that was always just a block away ended up being about two miles. We finally found the pharmacy which delt with us through a one foot by two foot window with bars. We took a cab back to the hotel. Within a couple of hours, Rosalinda was much better! 

Really, Quetzaltenango is a gorgeous city! Of all the cities in Guatemala I have visited, this has been my favorite. The city is big with elevation extremes that follow the contours of the mountains it is nestled within. Very old, the architecture is ornate with bold designs. Our day exploring Quetzaltenango on Sunday was very enjoyable.



Central Park, one block from the hotel.




The streets of Xela!















We had time for a shoe shine in the park. We treated these three boys to breakfast.



We walked forever to visit the Church of the Transfiguration that has the largest crucifix in all of Central America.....when we got there, the church was closed for renovation........I told Rosalinda to enjoy the view!




The church we didn't get to see...


On our way back from the church to visit the local market!


The market was Mayan....very colorful!










Right before it was time to catch our 2:30pm bus back to Guatemala City, the rain was making its way toward the city.


These two had just come from church!


The volcanoes of Antigua welcomed us home!




Though I did not make a perfect guide, we had a fantastic weekend with lots of stories to tell. Rosalinda told the entire family the events of our trip. She seemed to enjoy every minute...except maybe the last five minutes we were stuck on the mountain!

Ashley K., I was unable to locate the church in Quetzaltenango. I had underestimated the size of the city! Maybe you'll get to check that out for yourself one day! 

Willemien, we missed having you with us, but we are glad you are now feeling well!

Mom, can't wait to pick you up at the airport on Sunday! Safe travels!

Until next time,
cathy